17 August 2016

Middle East Part 3

In 1999, I crossed the border from Turkey into Syria and spent my first night in Aleppo at a hotel with dirty, blood stained sheets, dormitory style rooms and a filthy communal squat toilet (My travelling companions were keen to pay the absolute minimum for accommodation).

Despite this, travel in Syria was very safe and the people were friendly and hospitable.  We were invited by local Kurds to a wedding celebration at a neighbourhood hall and later explored the Citadel and the Great Mosque (both damaged in the current civil war).


View from the Citadel, Aleppo
From Aleppo, we travelled on to Hama and Homs, cities battered by the horrific ongoing conflict.  From Homs we took a dilapidated 1950's taxi in torrential rain out to Krak Des Chevaliers, a Crusader castle near the Lebanese border.


Krak Des Chevaliers, Syria
Then into the desert to the ruins of Palmyra, a city first established about 4000 years ago, but with artefacts found dating to 7500 BCE.  ISIS took control of Palmyra last year, destroyed many of the sites and looted the museum before the Syrian government recaptured the city in March this year.


Tower of Elahbel, Palmyra.  Destroyed in August 2015.

Palmyra, Syria
At the time (1999) I remember thinking how precarious these ruins were to earthquakes.  Little did I know that people would want to intentionally destroy them.  The physical destruction pales however, when compared to the human.  Palmyra's retired 81 year old antiquities chief Khaled Al-Assad was tortured for a month, then beheaded because he would not reveal the location of antiquities hidden from the conflict.

Palmyra, Syria



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